摘要：从医学梦想到时尚帝国，乔治·阿玛尼用一辆大众甲壳虫开启传奇人生。他是如何创立了价值96亿美元的时尚王国，成为红毯上永恒经典的呢？
从医学梦想到时尚帝国，乔治·阿玛尼用一辆大众甲壳虫开启传奇人生。他是如何创立了价值96亿美元的时尚王国，成为红毯上永恒经典的呢？
When you think of fashion brands and expensive taste, Armani is one of the top brands.
当你想到时尚品牌和昂贵品味时，阿玛尼是其中的顶尖品牌之一。
Many fashion brand stories started with taking loans or borrowing from friends.
许多时尚品牌的故事都是从贷款或向朋友借钱开始的。
But what if you just sold your car?
但如果你只是卖掉了你的汽车呢？
Giorgio Armani was a medical student before his interest in fashion, but he started his fashion line by selling his Volkswagen Beetle.
在对时尚产生兴趣之前，乔治·阿玛尼本是一名医学生，但他靠卖掉自己的大众甲壳虫汽车开始了时尚事业。
Of course, he bought it back as soon as he made enough money.
当然，他赚到足够的钱之后，很快又把车买了回来。
But how did this financially unstable man build a business worth $9.6 billion?
可是，这个经济状况并不稳定的人，是如何打造出一个价值96亿美元的商业帝国的呢？
Successful entrepreneurs have incredible stories about how they started their businesses.
成功的企业家总有令人惊叹的创业故事。
And every story starts at birth.
而每一个故事都要从出生讲起。
Luckily, this is 1934.
幸运的是，那是1934年。
On the 11th of July 1934, Giorgio Armani was born as the second child to his parents,
1934年7月11日，乔治·阿玛尼出生，是父母的第二个孩子，
Ugo Armani and Maria Raimondi.
父母分别是乌戈·阿玛尼和玛丽亚·雷蒙迪。
They raised him with his older brother, Sergio, and his younger sister, Rosanna, in a small town of Piacenza in Italy.
他们在意大利皮亚琴察的一个小镇抚养他，与哥哥塞尔吉奥和妹妹罗莎娜一起成长。
He was taught to be humble by his parents and had to work hard for everything because his family was not well-to-do.
父母教育他要谦逊，因为家庭并不富裕，他必须通过努力工作获得一切。
Giorgio's father, Ugo Armani, worked as an accountant for a shipping company to provide for their family, but things became very difficult during the war.
乔治的父亲乌戈·阿玛尼是一名航运公司的会计，努力养家糊口，但战争时期生活变得非常艰难。
Most children don't know what they want to be when they grow up.
大多数孩子在长大之前并不知道自己想成为什么。
They all seem to say whatever comes to mind.
他们似乎只是想到什么就说什么。
But that wasn't the case for Giorgio Armani.
但乔治·阿玛尼不是这样。
When Giorgio Armani started secondary school, he developed an interest in human anatomy after reading A.J. Cronin's The Citadel.
当阿玛尼进入中学时，他因阅读A.J. 克罗宁的《堡垒》而对人体解剖学产生兴趣。
His fascination inspired him to pursue a career in medicine from a young age.
这种迷恋促使他从小就立志成为一名医生。
Following his dreams, Giorgio Armani enrolled in the Department of Medicine at the University of Milan in 1950.
为了追随梦想，1950年，阿玛尼进入米兰大学医学院学习。
Giorgio Armani worked hard to achieve his childhood dream of being a doctor.
他为实现童年的医生梦想而努力学习。
But after three years of studying medicine, he began to doubt himself.
但学了三年医学后，他开始怀疑自己。
In 1953, Giorgio Armani suspended his studies and left the University of Milan.
1953年，阿玛尼暂停学业，离开米兰大学。
He enrolled in the military, hoping to use this time to figure out what he wanted in life.
他参军，希望利用这段时间弄清楚自己真正想要的人生。
While Giorgio Armani was in the military, he did not get posted to fight in any war zones because of his medical background.
在军中，因为有医学背景，他没有被派往战区。
He was posted to Verona, where he worked in a hospital for his two years in the military.
他被派往维罗纳，在一家医院服役两年。
Giorgio's time in the hospital made him realize that being a doctor was not what he wanted, so he completely abandoned his studies and left the military.
正是在医院的这段经历让他意识到，医生并不是他想要的职业，所以他彻底放弃了学业并离开了军队。
Giorgio Armani was disappointed in himself after failing in two careers,
阿玛尼在先后放弃医学和军旅生涯后，对自己感到失望。
as a medical student and as a soldier.
他既没能成为医生，也没能成为一名合格的军人。
After he left the military, he went back to Milan and decided to try seeking employment in another field other than medicine.
离开军队后，他回到米兰，决定尝试在医学以外的领域寻找工作。
In 1953, Italy was still suffering from the impact of the Second World War, and the parliamentary estimate was that 24% of Italian families were having a hard time surviving.
1953年的意大利仍在遭受二战的影响，议会估算约有24%的意大利家庭难以维持生计。
Unfortunately, this was the same year Giorgio Armani needed a job outside the medical field.
不幸的是，这一年阿玛尼必须找到一份医疗领域以外的工作。
The economy was struggling, and it was very difficult for him to find a job that would accept him with no proper background.
经济萧条，他没有相关背景，要找到一份合适的工作非常困难。
Giorgio Armani did not give up, and he found a job in Milan as a window dresser at a department store called La Rinascente.
但阿玛尼并未放弃，他最终在米兰的百货公司“La Rinascente”找到了一份橱窗布置师的工作。
Giorgio worked as a window dresser for some time before his hard work was recognized and he was promoted to work as a seller in the menswear section of La Rinascente.
他在这里做了一段时间橱窗设计，因工作努力被认可，很快被提拔到男装部门做销售。
This is where Giorgio Armani began to develop an interest in fashion.
也正是在这里，阿玛尼开始对时尚产生了兴趣。
His interest grew even more as he recommended clothing to the men that came in the department store each day.
每天为顾客推荐男装，让他的兴趣越来越浓。
In 1957, Giorgio began working as a buyer for La Rinascente.
1957年，阿玛尼开始在La Rinascente担任采购员。
But after seven years of working for the department store, Giorgio Armani decided to quit his job to pursue a career in fashion.
但在百货公司工作了七年之后，他决定辞职，正式投身时尚事业。
This decision would lead him to meet the man that would change his life forever.
这个决定让他遇见了彻底改变他人生的人。
After leaving his job at the department store, Giorgio had no experience in designing or making an outfit, so he sought to learn from someone who could make him into the designer he dreamed about.
离开百货公司的工作后，乔治奥对服装设计和制作毫无经验，于是他决定向能帮助他实现设计师梦想的人求学。
In the early 1960s, Armani joined a company run by Nino Schiruti, called Hitman, where he used his experience from working as a menswear salesman to design simple form menswear that could be reproduced in series.
1960年代初，阿玛尼加入尼诺·切鲁蒂经营的切瑞蒂公司，凭借担任男装销售员的经验，他设计出可批量生产的简约风格男装。
Giorgio Armani's clothing did so well in the market that Nino Schiruti put him in charge of the menswear section.
乔治奥·阿玛尼的设计在市场大获成功，尼诺·切鲁蒂随即让他主管男装部门。
Although he was flourishing in the company, Giorgio wanted more people to wear his designs.
虽然在公司发展顺遂，乔治奥却希望更多人能穿上他的设计。
He freelanced as a fashion designer for 10 more companies while he was working for Nino Schiruti.
在为切鲁蒂工作期间，他同时为十家时装公司担任自由设计师。
This continued for a decade, and Giorgio Armani's name spread throughout the male fashion industry in Italy, even while he was working under a company.
这样的双重身份持续了十年，乔治奥·阿玛尼的名字传遍意大利男装界，即使当时他仍效力于企业。
While Giorgio was building his skills and reputation as a fashion designer, someone took an interest in him.
当乔治奥不断打磨设计技艺与行业声誉时，一位伯乐注意到了他。
And this would be the start of a beautiful relationship.
这将成为一段美好缘分的起点。
In the late 1960s, Giorgio Armani met Sergio Gagliotti, the man that would change his life forever.
1960年代末，乔治奥·阿玛尼遇见塞尔吉奥·加莱奥蒂——这个永远改变他命运的人。
Sergio Gagliotti was a young architect with experience from several architectural firms in Italy at the time he met Giorgio Armani.
相识时的塞尔吉奥是位年轻建筑师，已在意大利多家建筑事务所积累经验。
Despite the 11 years age difference, the two got along well, and their relationship extended from just professional to personal.
尽管存在11岁年龄差，两人却意气相投，从工作伙伴逐渐发展为人生知己。
Sergio Gagliotti believed in Giorgio Armani's capabilities and convinced him to set up a design office in Milan.
塞尔吉奥深信乔治奥的才华，说服他在米兰设立设计工作室。
In 1973, Giorgio Armani quit his job at Hitman and decided to work as a freelance designer.
1973年，乔治奥离开切瑞蒂公司，决心成为独立设计师。
With the freedom to work with any fashion house he wanted, Armani collaborated with the top fashion houses in Milan.
获得与任何时装品牌合作的自由之后，阿玛尼开始与米兰顶尖时装品牌合作。
He made designs for fashion houses like Allegri, Begutta, Hilton, Secons, Ghibo, Montedoro and Tondress.
他为阿莱格里、贝古塔、希尔顿、赛孔斯、吉博、蒙泰多罗和通德莱斯等品牌设计时装。
His designs became so successful that they drew the attention of the international press.
其设计大获成功，甚至引起国际媒体关注。
Giorgio used his experience as a freelance fashion designer to develop his style.
乔治奥通过自由设计师经历逐渐形成独特风格。
Already, the international press was curious about him, and there was only one place for Armani to show the worth of his brand.
当时国际媒体已对他产生浓厚兴趣，而阿玛尼只需一个舞台来证明品牌价值。
There was a runway show scheduled to be held at the Sala Bianca in the Petit Palace in Florence, and the international press was there to cover the event.
恰逢佛罗伦萨皮蒂宫白色大厅将举办时装发布会，全球媒体齐聚现场报道这场盛会。
Giorgio used this fashion show to put his importance in the fashion industry on the map, leading his brand to be even more successful than he expected it to be.
乔治奥借此机会奠定了自己在时尚界的重要地位，使品牌获得远超预期的成功。
Following the success of the runway show, Sergio Gagliotti convinced Giorgio Armani to start his label.
大秀成功后，塞尔吉奥说服乔治奥创立个人品牌。
But there was one problem.
但存在一个难题。
Giorgio Armani had been working as a freelance designer for some years now, and his clothing was in high demand.
此时乔治奥已担任自由设计师数年，其作品市场需求旺盛。
With the success of his clothes on the runway, international fashion enthusiasts were now interested in Giorgio Armani, and he had the experience necessary to create his style.
随着时装周作品的成功，全球时尚爱好者开始关注乔治奥·阿玛尼，他也积累了形成个人风格的充足经验。
The stage was set and these signs pointed to success before the brand would even launch.
万事俱备，品牌尚未正式推出便已显现成功征兆。
But Giorgio Armani had no money to start his brand.
但乔治奥·阿玛尼缺乏创业资金。
Giorgio Gagliotti did not give up on his friend.
塞尔吉奥·加莱奥蒂没有放弃支持好友。
He continued pushing and suggested Giorgio sell his Volkswagen Beetle to start his fashion line.
他持续鼓励，并建议乔治奥卖掉大众甲壳虫汽车作为启动资金。
Giorgio Armani was still doubtful about starting a company when he had little skills in administration.
乔治奥仍因缺乏管理经验而对创业心存疑虑。
Giorgio Gagliotti decided to leave architecture and help Giorgio with his fashion brand.
塞尔吉奥毅然放弃建筑事业，全力协助乔治奥经营时尚品牌。
In 1975, Giorgio Armani sold his Volkswagen Beetle and started his fashion line with Sergio Gagliotti.
1975年，乔治奥·阿玛尼卖掉爱车，与塞尔吉奥·加莱奥蒂共同创立时装系列。
They started the company called the Giorgio Armani Corporation, with Sergio handling the administration while Armani took care of the designing and making the clothes.
二人正式成立"乔治奥·阿玛尼公司"。塞尔吉奥负责行政管理，阿玛尼则主管服装设计与制作。
That same year, Armani launched its first-ever luxury ready-to-wear collection for men.
同年，阿玛尼推出首个男士高级成衣系列。
The line was very successful.
该系列大获成功。
In the following year, Armani launched a ready-to-wear collection for women and this received a warm welcome as well.
次年推出的女装成衣系列同样备受追捧。
Armani is recognized as the pioneer of red carpet fashion.
阿玛尼被誉为红毯时尚的开创者。
But although Giorgio's collections were popular in Europe, they did not blow up in America until the 1980s.
虽然乔治奥的系列在欧洲颇受欢迎，但直到1980年代才在美国引发轰动。
In 1979, Giorgio Armani began producing his luxury male and female ready-to-wear collection for the United States.
1979年，乔治奥·阿玛尼开始为美国市场生产高端男女成衣。
His label quickly became one of the top names in American fashion.
其品牌迅速成为美国时尚界的顶级代表。
mostly because they had never heard of him before.
这很大程度上得益于美国市场此前对他的陌生。
The Giorgio Armani Corporation did not intend to stop at clothing fashion because they featured some new products like Giorgio Armani underwear and swimwear and Giorgio Armani accessory.
公司并未止步于时装领域，相继推出阿玛尼内衣、泳装及配饰系列。
However, taking the Giorgio Armani Corporation introduced another opportunity for the brand to flourish and that was Hollywood red carpet shows.
然而，好莱坞红毯秀为乔治阿玛尼品牌的发展带来了新的机遇。
Giorgio Armani had his red carpet debut by dressing Richard Gere for the red carpet of his 1980 film American Gigolo.
1980年电影《美国舞男》中，理查·基尔身着阿玛尼亮相红毯
This gave him a lot of attention from the American audience and drew a lot of celebrities toward the Armani brand.
此举引发美国观众广泛关注，众多名流开始青睐阿玛尼品牌。
Now that he had the attention of Americans, Giorgio began designing costumes for the popular show Miami Vice, and this opened doors to more film collaborations.
获得美国市场关注后，乔治奥为热播剧《迈阿密风云》设计戏服，由此开启了更多影视合作。
people began to look out for Armani's designs on the red carpet.
人们开始关注红毯上的阿玛尼设计。
For the next decades, Hollywood stars would take turns wearing Armani on the red carpet.
后数十年间，好莱坞明星竞相穿着阿玛尼亮相红毯
The spotlight was now on Armani, and Giorgio used it wisely.
聚光灯聚焦阿玛尼，而乔治奥巧妙地运用了这种关注。
Thanks to the success of his company, other businesses were looking at the Giorgio Armani Corporation, and Giorgio used the attention from Hollywood and the rest of America to launch a business line called Power Suits.
公司取得的成功，引起众多企业关注，乔治奥借助好莱坞及全美关注度 推出"权力套装"产品线。
The collection had both male and female sections, and that got a lot of people very interested.
该系列有男装和女装，均引发了热烈的反响。
Armani was in high demand, and after the launch of the underwear, swimwear and accessories collections, the orders were becoming too much for Giorgio and Sergio to handle.
阿玛尼产品需求旺盛，在推出内衣、泳装及配饰系列后，订单量已超出乔治奥和塞尔吉奥的处理能力。
The power couple used the success of the power suits to set up the first Armani boutique in Milan.
这对实力搭档借助权力套装的商业成功，在米兰开设了首家阿玛尼精品店。
Their dreams were finally coming true.
他们的梦想最终得以实现。
But in 1985, Armani lost Sergio Gagliotti to AIDS.
但1985年，阿玛尼因艾滋病失去了塞尔吉奥·加廖蒂。
Giorgio Armani was devastated by the loss of his partner and friend.
乔治奥·阿玛尼因失去合作伙伴与挚友而遭受重创。
Many people feared the business would suffer significant losses without Sergio running its operations.
许多人担心失去塞尔吉奥的运营管理会使企业遭受重大损失。
After taking time to mourn his partner privately, Giorgio Armani returned to the company as its sole owner.
在私下哀悼合作伙伴一段时间后，乔治奥·阿玛尼以唯一所有者的身份重返公司。
Contrary to popular opinion, Giorgio did a good job in the company's administration, and he got new ideas that would bring the brand to the younger generation.
与普遍看法相反，乔治奥在公司管理方面表现出色，并提出了将品牌推向年轻世代的新理念。
The Armani brand started as a fashion brand making ready-to-wear clothes, but even after Sergio's death, Giorgio continued to expand the company's territory.
阿玛尼品牌最初以制作成衣的时尚品牌起家，但即使在塞尔吉奥去世后，乔治奥仍持续扩展公司的商业版图。
Now, in 2022, Armani is known worldwide as a luxury fashion brand that branches out to the accessories, home interiors, and perfumes, contributing to Giorgio Armani being recognized as one of the leading fashion designers in the world. with a net worth of $9.6 billion and a net income of $90 million per year.
如今到2022年，阿玛尼已成为全球知名的奢侈时尚品牌，业务延伸至配饰、家居装饰及香水领域，使乔治奥·阿玛尼被公认为世界领先的时装设计师之一，其净资产达96亿美元，年净收入为9000万美元。
来源：英语东