摘要：你是否适合用它？浓度是否越高越好？敏感肌又该如何选择？这份来自《纽约时报》的专家终极指南，将为你一一解答。从挑选诀窍到正确使用手法，带你避开常见误区，解锁视黄醇的真正实力，轻松建立高效且安全的护肤流程。
有趣灵魂说
护肤成分千千万，若论资历与实力，「视黄醇」无疑是公认的“超级英雄”。它功效卓著，能抗老、淡纹、祛痘、改善肤质，但使用不当也易导致刺痛、泛红。
你是否适合用它？浓度是否越高越好？敏感肌又该如何选择？这份来自《纽约时报》的专家终极指南，将为你一一解答。从挑选诀窍到正确使用手法，带你避开常见误区，解锁视黄醇的真正实力，轻松建立高效且安全的护肤流程。
The New York Times ｜On Beauty
纽约时报 | 美容
Everything You Need to Know About Retinol, Skin-Care’s ‘Superhero’ Ingredient
关于护肤"超级英雄"成分——视黄醇，你需要知道的一切
An expert-approved guide to a multitasking cosmetic with a wide range of benefits — from clearing congested pores to reducing the appearance of wrinkles.
这是一份经过专家批准的指南，针对一种具有广泛益处的多效化妆品成分——从清理堵塞的毛孔到减少皱纹的出现。
By Kari Molvar
视黄醇是应对一系列皮肤问题最有效的成分之一 。这种基于维生素A的化合物，已知能促进胶原蛋白生成、淡化黑斑、改善皮肤纹理，此外还能减少痤疮和多余油脂。"它是一种多效护肤超级英雄，"纽约皮肤科医生Rachel Nazarian博士表示，这一点有数十年的科学研究支持。然而，了解何时以及如何使用它可能会让人困惑。首先，视黄醇可能导致 干燥和光敏性 ，这就是为什么大多数护肤专业人士建议在较凉爽的季节开始或增加视黄醇产品的使用。以下是将这种强效成分融入日常护肤程序的更多专家建议。
谁应该（以及不应该）使用视黄醇
视黄醇和类视黄醇 ——后者是一个更广泛的术语，包括通常需要处方的高强度维生素A衍生物—— 通过加速细胞更新来刺激皮肤修复，显露出底下更柔软、更光滑的皮肤 。这个过程可以减少细纹和皱纹的出现，并有助于增强弹性蛋白和胶原蛋白的生成。尽管许多人将视黄醇与其抗衰老益处联系起来，但Nazarian也 向所有年龄段、面临色素沉着过度、日光损伤的患者推荐它 ，并且鉴于视黄醇还能减少皮脂分泌， 也适用于痤疮患者 。如果使用得当，它对所有肤色都是安全的，但孕妇、哺乳期女性或有湿疹或酒渣鼻的人应避免使用。对于这些情况，Nazarian经常引导患者使用补骨脂酚，这是一种植物成分，她说它"最接近"视黄醇。"它能针对胶原蛋白生成，且刺激性更小。"她也喜欢舒缓肽和生长因子，因为它们具有紧致和修复皮肤的能力。
Rodrigo Saldaña
根据您的皮肤类型进行选择
对于敏感或干燥的肤质 ，Nazarian建议 使用富含透明质酸、滋润但不油腻的视黄醇面霜 ，例如露得清的" Rapid Wrinkle Repair Night Face Moisturizer "或 SkinBetter Science 的" AlphaRet Overnight Cream "，后者还含有烟酰胺，以保护皮肤屏障并最大限度地减少泛红。如果你是油性皮肤，可以考虑轻薄的精华液，如 SkinMedica 的" Retinol Complex 1.0 "；对于痤疮，Nazarian 更喜欢阿达帕林，这是一种可以减少毛孔堵塞和痤疮发作的类视黄醇。Differin 品牌提供0.1%浓度的非处方版本。对于特别敏感的皮肤，纽约美容师 Crystal Greene 推荐使用封装视黄醇配方，它能逐渐吸收，从而降低不良反应的几率。她的首选是：Marie Veronique 的" Multi-Retinol Night Emulsion "。
尽管许多品牌吹捧其产品中的视黄醇浓度——从0.1%到1%不等——但这个数字可能并不像看起来那么重要。" 浓度为0.01%的基础视黄醇就是有效的 ，"Nazarian说。" 使用更高浓度你可能会更早看到效果，但从长远来看，缓慢、稳定的较低浓度通常同样有效，并且往往更容易被耐受 。"此外，多伦多化妆品化学家 Stephen Alain Ko 指出，非处方产品上标明的百分比可能包含其他成分；公司通常将其称为"视黄醇复合物"，这使他们能够以更高的效力进行营销。也要仔细检查包装。澳大利亚悉尼的化学家 Michelle Wong 说，视黄醇作为一种化合物，往往非常不稳定，在暴露于光线时很容易分解。坚持使用不透明、可紧密密封的容器中的产品。Wong喜欢 RoC 的" Retinol Correxion Deep Wrinkle Night Cream "，它非常适合大多数皮肤类型。
有效涂抹
大多数视黄醇产品应在晚上使用，以尽量减少阳光照射，并且用于刚洗净并拍干（而非潮湿）的皮肤 。"水分饱和的皮肤会加速视黄醇的吸收，这可能会导致更多的刺激，"Ko说。并且坚持使用豌豆大小的量，点涂在脸部、颈部和胸部，Nazarian说。"只需要非常、非常薄的一层。"她补充说，开始时每周使用视黄醇两到三个晚上，然后慢慢增加频率，"目标是每晚使用。"Wong甚至建议最初可以像使用面膜一样涂抹视黄醇产品，并在30分钟后洗掉。
在最初几天和几周内，随着皮肤适应，出现暂时的干燥、泛红和脱皮是正常的。话虽如此，如果你没有注意到任何刺痛感，不要认为视黄醇没有效果。"你不需要看到脱皮才说明它起作用了！"Nazarian说。对于任何护肤成分，尤其是视黄醇，耐心和坚持是关键。"大约需要三到六个月才能看到效果，所以要保持投入和勤勉，"Nazarian说。处方类视黄醇，如维A酸和他扎罗汀，往往起效更快，但它们也可能导致更多的泛红、脱皮和炎症。请咨询您的医生，以确定哪种类型最适合您。
在使用视黄醇时，请保持护肤程序的其他部分简单： 使用温和的洁面乳洗脸 ， 在最初几周的适应期暂停使用去角质磨砂膏或化学焕肤产品 ， 并避免使用其他可能引起刺激的成分 ，如过氧化苯甲酰或次氯酸。在涂抹视黄醇后， 使用具有舒缓作用的保湿霜，最好是富含舒缓神经酰胺的产品 。（Nazarian喜欢 Cerave 或 Cetaphil 的产品。）白天，厚涂一层 SPF 30（或更高）的防晒霜。随着时间的推移，当你的皮肤适应后，你可能会考虑使用更强效的类视黄醇——它们可以针对更深的皱纹或更严重的色素沉着或痤疮——但更强效并不总是更好。" 目标是找到一种你能耐受的配方 ，"Ko说，"并且享受使用它的过程。"◾
Retinol is one of the most effective ingredients for a range of skin-care woes. A vitamin A-based compound, it’sknown to boost collagen, fade dark spots and smooth the skin’s texture, in addition to reducingacne and excess oil. “It’s a multitasking superhero,” says the New York-baseddermatologist Rachel Nazarian, that’s backed up by decades ofscientific research. Yet knowing when and just how to use it can be confusing. First off, retinol cancause dryness and sun sensitivity,which is why most skin-care professionals recommend starting or ramping up retinol products in the cooler months. Below, more expert-approved advice for incorporating this potent ingredient into your routine.
Who Should (and Shouldn’t) Use Retinol
Retinols and retinoids — the latter is a broader term that includes higher-strength vitamin A derivatives that typically require a prescription —stimulate skin repair by speeding up cell turnover, revealing the softer, smoother skin that lies underneath. This process can reduce the look of fine lines and wrinkles and help enhance elastin and collagen production. But while many people associate retinol with its anti-aging benefits, Nazarian also recommends it to patients of all ages who are dealing with hyperpigmentation, sun damage and, given that retinol also reduces sebum production,acne.It’s safe on all skin tones if used properly, but should be avoided by those who are pregnant, breastfeeding or experience eczema or rosacea. For those cases, Nazarian often steers patients to bakuchiol, a plant-based ingredient that’s “as close as it gets” to retinol, she says. “It can target collagen production with less irritation.” She also likes soothing peptides and growth factors for their skin-firming and healing capabilities.
Tailor to Your Skin Type
For sensitive or dry complexions, Nazarian suggests a rich but not greasy retinol cream boosted with hyaluronic acid, like Neutrogena’s Rapid Wrinkle Repair Night Face Moisturizeror SkinBetter Science’s AlphaRet Overnight Cream, which also contains niacinamide to protect the skin’s barrier and minimize redness. If you’re oily, consider lightweight serums such as SkinMedica’s Retinol Complex 1.0and, for acne, Nazarian prefers adapalene, a retinoid that can reduce clogged pores and flare-ups. It’s available at 0.1 percent over the counter in Differin. For especially sensitive skin, the New York-based aesthetician Crystal Greene recommends encapsulated retinol formulas that absorb gradually to lessen the chance of adversereactions. Her top pick: Marie Veronique’s Multi-Retinol Night Emulsion
Although many brands tout the concentration of retinol in their products — ranging from 0.1 to 1 percent — that number might not be as important as it seems. “A basic retinol at 0.01 percent is effective,” Nazarian says. “You might see an earlier benefit with a higher concentration, but slow, steady lower concentrations typically work just as well in the long run and are often more tolerable.” Plus the percentage listed on an over-the-counter product could include other ingredients , the Toronto-based cosmetic chemist Stephen Alain Ko points out; companies will usually call this a “retinol complex,” which allows them to market a higher potency. Scrutinize the packaging too. Retinol, as a compound, tends to be highly unstable and can easily break down when exposed to light, says the Sydney, Australia-based chemist Michelle Wong. Stick with products in opaque, tightly sealable containersWong likes RoC’s Retinol Correxion Deep Wrinkle Night Cream, which is well suited for most skin types.
Apply Effectively
Most retinol products should be applied at night to minimize sun exposure, and on freshly washed skin that’s patted dry, not left damp. “Water-saturated skin can speed up retinol’s absorption, which might lead to more irritation,” Ko says. And stick with a pea-size amount, dotted over your face, neck and chest, Nazarian says. “A very, very thin layer is all that’s needed.” Start using retinol two to three nights a week and slowly increase the frequency, she adds, “with the goal being to use it every night.” Wong even suggests applying your retinol product like a mask initially, and washing it off after 30 minutes.
In the first few days and weeks, it’s normal to experience temporary dryness, redness and flaking as your skin adjusts. That said, if you don’t notice any tingling, don’t assume the retinol isn’t effective. “You don’t need to see peeling for it to be working!” says Nazarian. With any skin-care ingredient, but especially retinol, patience and consistency are key. “It takes about three to six months to see results, so stay committed and diligent,” says Nazarian. Prescription retinoids, such as tretinoin and tazarotene, tend to work faster, but they can also cause more redness, peeling and inflammation. Consult with your doctor to figure out which kind is best for you.
Keep the rest of your skin-care routine simple when you’re using retinol: Wash with a gentle cleanser, take a break from exfoliating peels or scrubs for the first several weeks of acclimating and avoid other potentially irritating ingredients like benzoyl peroxide or hypochlorous acid. Follow your retinol application with a calming moisturizer, preferably one rich in soothing ceramides.(Nazarian likes those from Cerave or Cetaphil.) During the day, slather on a generous layer of SPF 30 (or higher). Over time, as your skin adjusts, you might consider more potent retinoids — which can target deeper lines or more severe hyperpigmentation or acne — but stronger isn’t always better. “The goal is to find a formula you can tolerate,” says Ko, “and enjoy using.”
来源：左右图史
